Hallway Built-in Begins

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After risking decapitation on the drive home from the lumberyard, I had to put my wee built-in project on hold for about two weeks. That gave me plenty of time to remove the splinters from my neck.

But this week, I made good progress. What took longest was cutting things to size…because almost every piece is too large for all table saws available to be at short notice (mine and Christopher Schwarz’s). It’s not often a furniture maker needs a sliding table saw with 96″+ capacity sled, but once in a while, it sure would be handy! So I bought a piece of 2″-thick pink insulation, slapped that atop sawbenches in the biergarten, and got to work. (And when possible, I cut things 1/2″ oversized, and made the final cuts on the table saw for accuracy and repeatability. Yes, the Festool track saw makes clean and accurate cuts…but I don’t trust the user’s track-saw layout ability.)

insulation

Set the depth of cut to just deeper than the workpiece is thick. That way, the insulation gets barely scored, and supports the work all the way through the cut(s).

Both the base and top cabinet are now together. It helps that I decided to use screws rather than Dominos – that made things go together a lot faster. It will also be screwed through the sides to studs, thus plenty strong enough for its purpose (storing sheets, towels and toiletries) and beyond.

The bottom section gets four drawers, graduated in size from bottom to top, with two drawers on the top (thanks, Chris, for that design improvement). The web frames are pocket screwed together, then screwed to the sides.

base

The bottom of the top section is raised up about 3/4″ from the bottom of the assembly; that will allow me to incorporate a pull-out shelf between the top and bottom section, on which to fold towels before putting them away. (My hope is that with a proper storage piece instead of bins under my bed, I will actually fold the towels and put them away, instead of leaving them in the laundry basket.) There’s also a fixed middle(ish) shelf and top. The top piece is dropped down about 4″ from the top edges, and tomorrow, I’ll put a 4″-wide rail above it, to which I’ll (eventually) be able to attach the face frame and crown moulding. Plus, there will be a couple of adjustable shelves. (The fixed middle shelf and adjustable shelves will get a hardwood lip to cover the ugly raw plywood edge; the other raw edges will be hidden behind the face frame.)

Top

Yes, of course I wanted to put the top atop the bottom for a look – but I can’t lift it without help.

Tomorrow, I’ll drill the shelf pin holes, fit the back and hit the interior of the top with a coat or two of shellac. With luck, it will not be raining…and Chris will be willing to help me get these home, up the stairs and into position.

Then, it’s on to the face frame and doors (Domino joinery), and drawers (dovetails…unless I succumb both to peer pressure and a desire to finish quickly, in which case, Dominos).

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Put the Nail(s) in the Coffin

ClassPicI am dead tired…from building coffins (so at least I’m prepared). This weekend, I had six students in a coffin-making class at Lost Art Press. The project itself was a Halloween conceit; really, it was a class in sawing. Lots of sawing – both crosscuts and long rips.

Typically for two-day classes, I’ll prep the wood to finished size (or darn close to it); the class is on the joinery that holds the pieces together, and smoothing the work for a finish.

Bottom

The bottom panel, after crosscutting to length and ripping to shape (here, Matt is planing down to his line). The breastline (the widest point) should match your shoulder width plus an inch. The height is your own plus 2″.

For the coffin class, that wasn’t possible – each is fitted to its maker. Had I gotten everyone’s measurements beforehand and cut the pieces to shape and size, it would have been a three-hour class: one hour for planing, one hour to kerf then bend (with a hot-water assist) the sides and one hour of nailing (we used a lot of nails).

Assembled

We planed 6° angles on the top and bottom edges of the bottom, then nailed the headboard and footboards in place. Here, you can see the kerf cuts that allow the sides to bend. After cutting those (typically five – one where the sides meet the breastline, then two to either side), the long edges are nailed to the footboard and bottom, up to just below the bend.

Instead, on every student’s bench was an oversized bottom, sides and top panel (with headboard and footboards cut to size). They crosscut and ripped those to fit, then cleaned up down to their cut lines with handplanes. The two sides were match-planed (sandwiched together and planed) to taper top to bottom.

Then, we cut kerfs at the bends in the sides, nailed the long edges, and put the kettle on. Out back in the “biergarten” (also the spray booth), we poured steaming water down the kerfs, let that sit for a minute or three, then worked with a buddy to bend the side down to meet the headboard, while the maker nailed it in place to secure the bend. (Flip and repeat).

pallbearers

After the bends.

The last task on the boxes was to flush the overlong sides to the footboards and headboards. Then, flip the box upside down on the interior of the lid, trace the shape…then saw some more – whee!

It was demanding work – but lots of fun. And the looks from passersby? Priceless.

Everyone did a great job – and I hope they had a great time; I know I did!

For step-by-step instructions on how to build your own coffin in this, the “Southern Counties” style, see “The Anarchist’s Design Book,”  by Christopher Schwarz (or look for this class next year…sometime just prior to Halloween); for more on building a variety of coffins, see “Coffin-Making and Undertaking,” edited by Paul Hasluck. (My favorite lines from that book: “The polishing (finishing) of a coffin is often left alone by undertakers, under the impression that it cannot be done properly except by an experienced polisher. This is perfectly true as regards polishing in general, but in a coffin the lasting quality of the polish is immaterial. If a good polish to last a few days is obtained, it is enough….” (He then goes on the tell the reader how to fill the wood pores and apply a French polish. Good enough indeed!)

Posted in Classes, Woodworking | 5 Comments

Grave Undertaking

glueupsThis weekend, I’m teaching a coffin-making class – and those who choose to will re-purpose their pine boxes as bookcases until they’re needed for their intended purpose. (Mine is going on my front porch until Nov. 1; then I’ll add shelves.)

I thought it would be fun to do these just in time for Halloween, but I made a grave mistake by putting off prep until today.  I was thinking of prep in terms of my measurements. Assuming I don’t gain a lot of weight between now and my end, I can fit inside a 2-board bottom and top, and single-board sides (1x12s). But I am 5’6″ (or at least I was at age 30) and not terribly muscular (or on the particularly heavy side); all of the students in this class are men, and thus likely larger in all dimensions.

So I’m basing the rough lengths off Christopher Schwarz’s height (he is (was?) 6’3-5/8″) and the rough widths of someone slightly less than William Howard Taft’s approximate girth (in 1928…not now; he’s probably lost a lot of weight in the last 90 years). That should account for a range of shapes and sizes. But that means 28 panel glue-ups, some of them three boards wide. Turns out, one can get blisters from clamps – but that won’t kill me. And if it does, well, mine are the shorter and narrower pieces – just build it around me.

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A Place to Put my Stuff

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After finally “finishing” the worst drywall patching in the history of drywall patching, I’m ready to start on the built-in closet that will cover up my shoddy patch job and make use of this dead-end hallway on the backside of my shower by providing linen storage. (Right now, my extra sheets and towels are in inconvenient plastic tubs under my bed.)

I perhaps ought to be more ashamed of my drywall work…but I wasn’t planning on putting up any in this space; what’s here is simply what was left over from the bathroom. And I’m not bothering to tape or mud it; it will be completely covered, top to bottom and side to side.

The built-in will basically be two big plywood boxes, with a face frame out of reclaimed Southern yellow pine to match the rest of the trim in the house. The bottom cabinet will have three drawers; the top will have two doors with a center fixed shelf, and three adjustable shelves. In between (on reader recommendations from an earlier post), I’ve decided on a pull-out shelf for folding towels or what have you. (I first drew a drop-down front, but didn’t like the look of the supporting lopers.)

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Side, back and top removed.

The wide rail at the top will get an applied casing and mouldings just like those atop all my door frames, flush to the ceiling (I’ve had a salvage one, er, seasoning in the basement for a year now…).

I have the SYP for the face frame and door rails and stiles – and best of all (if I can make the frames without mucking it up), it already has a perfect patinated period finish. I’m  hoping to find the same for the drawer fronts and door panels – or at least SYP from the right period. (I have a matching finish formula worked out…but wouldn’t it be glorious to not have to use it!)

In the meantime, I have some big-ass boxes to build and lots of plywood to waste.

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Sub-optimal “optimization.”

Posted in Baths, Renovation/Restoration | 7 Comments

Jan.-June 2019 Classes at Lost Art Press

Just in case there’s anyone who follows me who doesn’t also follow the Lost Art Press blog (which seems unlikely…).

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Reader, I Did It

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I’m headed back to Building Value on Monday morning to take apart then transport these columns and knee walls to my foyer…where they will no doubt sit for a little while before I get around to installing them.

I decided I couldn’t pass on this salvage unit – especially after I talked the manager down a bit in price – even though it’s not a perfect fit.  The column and base assemblies are about 16″ too short, and the unit as it stands now is about 40″ too narrow, so I’ll be removing the frame around the unit, and attaching the knee walls and columns directly to the walls. Plus, I’ll build up the base for the knee walls to a height suitable for bookcases – which is what I wanted to begin with – using some of that frame. I’ll also remove the frame-and-panel assembly from one face of the current knee wall, then use it as the back (or front, depending on which side you stand) of the new base portion.

That rest of that 10″-wide old-growth Southern yellow pine frame will be repurposed as the face frame for the (still to be built) built-in linen closet in my upstairs hallway – the finish (and the wood) matches all the other woodwork in my house.

And if there’s any left after the above, I’ll no doubt find a use for it.

Arguably, as a self-employed hobo, I should have just let it go…but I know I’d regret it for years to come (those columns are in darn-near perfect condition!). And I recently finished a delightful and unexpected assignment that helped to cover the cost. Unbudgeted income (plus a little more) for an unbudgeted expenditure – a fair trade.

Chris, I hope you don’t mind that I’m borrowing your truck (I only wish I could borrow you on Monday, too – bet you’re glad to be out of the country)!

Posted in Foyer, Renovation/Restoration | 11 Comments

Reader, Should I?

megan

Please ignore the mess. Oh…and I have plenty “Mechanic’s Companion” available…the sales of which would help 😉

If you’ve been reading this blog for any length of time, you know I live in a circa 1906 house that I’ve been restoring from a 1950s two-family conversion back to a one family (which in my case consists of me and some cats).

Right now, I’m meant to be putting the finishing touches on the two new upstairs bathrooms, working on a built-in linen closet for the hallway, then tackling the spindles and handrail for the front stairs.

But.

Far down on my reno list is doing something with the large opening between the front hall and the living room (see above). Originally, there were likely either columns atop knee walls there (like the house two doors down to my right) or a slightly smaller opening and pocket doors (like the houses one and four doors down to my left). I can’t put in pocket doors; there is HVAC ducting and wiring now in the walls. So I’ve been planning to someday put in knee walls and columns, and perhaps those knee walls would be bookcases, with glass doors.

But.

Yesterday, I visited a local salvage place to donate some stuff I don’t need. I should not have looked around. There, tucked in tightly behind other stuff (so tightly that I couldn’t get a good picture) are two columns atop (non-bookcase) knee walls. And the fit is off by only a little  – an easy fix by eschewing the three-sided frame, and having the bits connect directly to the plaster walls and header (And OK, adding a small base…but that’s simple).

The price – $900. I can’t build these for $900 (heck – I’m not even sure I can build the columns at all…not that I’ve ever let that stop me before!). But I have become markedly parsimonious in my self-employment, and this reno job is near the bottom my list (because it’s not truly necessary). Still…what are the odds on the (almost) exact thing I want ever again becoming available?

I’m leaning toward yes. (But if I fret over it long enough, someone else will buy them…problem solved!)

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2019 Woodworking Classes

IMG_0140 copyOn October 8, we’ll be releasing the list of January through June 2019 woodworking classes at Lost Art Press, for which registration will be live at 10 a.m. EDT on October 12. But I’m waiting on a few class descriptions from visiting instructors, so it’s possible there will be a few more first half of 2019 classes announced a bit later this year. I don’t want mine to be among those stragglers, so I’m finishing up my descriptions today.

I do this coming off a hard-working weekend of Dutch tool chest building…in which we got soveryclosetodone, but to get there, we had to work late on Saturday, and on Sunday, Christopher Schwarz and I sped things along by using the machinery for some of the operations. That way,  everyone could leave with an almost-finished chest (they’ll be attaching the lifts and lids at home). And the same thing happened earlier this year. Two days is just not enough time.

So for 2019, I’m changing the Dutch tool chest class to a three-day event ($450 plus materials). That will provide ample time for all the intended operations to be performed by hand, I won’t have to get out the whip, and we’ll get the lids attached. And because I am a glutton for lots of wood prep, I’ll be teaching it three* times: February 22-24; June 14-16; November 15-17.

I’ll also be teaching: Shaker Hanging Cabinet, Boarded Bookcase, 6-board Chest, and two week-long classes in a full-size English tool chest – a.k.a. “the Anarchist’s Tool Chest.”

Check the Lost Art Press blog (and here) on October 8 for details on my classes, plus classes from Brendan Gaffney, Christopher Schwarz and a handful of visiting woodworking luminaries.

* I’ll also be teaching a week-long class in the Dutch tool chest June 24-28 at the Port Townsend School of Woodworking; that fancier version will have a lid with breadboard ends, plus we’ll have time to properly outfit and customize the interiors (the description will soon be up on the school’s site).

Posted in Classes, Woodworking | 8 Comments

Video: Peter Follansbee Riving Oak Boards

PFIn the midst of cleaning out my virtual files, I came across the video below of Peter Follansbee showing how to rive boards out of oak . It’s 114.7 MB for which I don’t have room on my computer, so I’m sharing it here.

I shot it during a 2011 class with Peter on making a joint stool from a tree…coincidentally the title of a Lost Art Press book co-authored by Peter and Jennie Alexander.

Peter is just about done with his initial work on another book, tentatively titled “Joiner’s Work,” on making joined and carved chests (and I’m just about done with its initial edit) – so look for that soonish, likely early 2019, from Lost Art Press.

Posted in Woodworking | 2 Comments

Draw a Scotia, Ogee, Cima-recta & Cima-reversa

mouldings2.jpgA scotia is a concave moulding receding at the top, and pro­jecting at the bottom, which in this respect is contrary both to the ovolo and cavetto; it is also to be observed, that its profile consists of two quadrants of circles of different radii, or it may be consi­dered as a semi-ellipse taken upon two conjugate diameters, Fig. 9.

To describe the scotia, divide the height A B into three equal parts, at the point 2 draw the line 2 C D, being one-third from the top, draw E C perpendicular to C D, with the centre C and distance C E describe the quadrant E F; take the height A 2 and make F D equal to it: draw D G perpendicular to FD, from D with the distance D F describe the arc F G, and E F G will be the profile of the scotia. This moulding is peculiarly applied to the bases of columns, and makes a distinguishing line of shadow between the torii.

The ogee is a moulding of contrary curvature, and is of two kinds: when the profile of the projecting part is concave, and consequently the receding part convex, the ogee is called a cima-recta, Figs. 10 and 11 ; and when the contrary, it is then called a cima-reversa, Fig. 12.

To describe the cima-recta when the projection of the moulding is equal to its height, and when required to be of a thick curvature, Fig. 10. Join the projections of the fillets A and B by the straight line A B; bisect A B at C, draw E C D parallel to the fillet F A, draw A D and B E perpendicular to F B; from the point E describe the quadrant B C, and from the point D describe the quadrant A C, then B C A is the profile.

To describe the cima-recta when the height and projection are unequal, and when it is required to be of a flat curvature, Fig. 11. Join A B and bisect it in C, with the distance B C or C A from the point A describe the arc C D, from C with the same radius describe the arc A D cutting the former in D, the foot of the compass still remaining in C describe the arc B E, from B with the same radius describe the arc C E, from the point D describe the arc A C, from the point E describe the arc C B, then will A C B be the profile required.

The cima-reversa, Fig, 12, is described in the same manner.

Quirk mouldings sometimes occasion confusion as to their figure particularly when removed from the eye, so as frequently to make one moulding appear as two.

Click here for Part 1: Astragal, Beads, Torus, Ovolo & Cavetto.

From “Mechanic’s Companion.”

Posted in Books/Editing/Writing, Rude Mechanicals Press, Uncategorized | 2 Comments